How to fit a Detroit locker into the rear axel
Jul 2, 2014 19:16:12 GMT
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Post by chally2 on Jul 2, 2014 19:16:12 GMT
Fitting a Detroit locker into the rear axle on a Land Rover 101
1. Drain oil from the diff.
2. Remove diff pan cover and relocate the link connnected to the apportioning valve.
3. Take photos of the bearing caps so you know which way round and on what side they go.
4. Remove half shafts.
5. Take off bearing caps and keep separated. Keep the bolts in the correct holes.
6. Now the bit you're probably interested in. How to remove the diff without a spreader. Well I didn't take any photos as I was struggling but it can be done. I did it be getting two longish pipes/bars whatever and levering it out.
This is roughly where the bars went. Some times on the other side. At first you think It's not coming out because in the back of your head you know you should be using a spreader, but then you hit a sweet spot and it moves a smidge. Then you will work out how to get it out. By the time I finished my front one it was coming in and out no problem. I would advise having a mate because it is heavy when it comes out and you don't want it landing on you head.
7. Here's the proof.
Now the casing needs a good clean out.
8. Now to dismantle the diff. It is easier to use a windy gun. If you use a ratchet or spanner then you will have to hold on to the diff tightly to stop it turning. The most difficult part was the removal of the bearings. You do need to remove them to take the diff apart.
There are only 2 points were a bearing puller can locate and I had to grind mine down to fit. Because it locates onto the shims there isn't much grip. Eventually I took off the outer race, heated the inner one up with oxy acetylene and removed it but even then it was hard work. It may be easier to cutting off if you don't have a torch or trying to use a bearing splitter. That's what I will try next time.
Remember not mix the shims when you do get it off and keep them separate so you know what side they go back on. I had spare shims. As some were damaged, I swapped like for like.
Once you have undone it, clean it out and remove the inner gubbings. The inner spacers are no long needed.
9. Now insert your new locker. The instructions are very good. Place it in the right way round but don't undo the butterfly nut yet.
Ironically I went to a lot of effort to get side gears for my broken front diff, but the rear side gears are no longer needed.
Refit the other half (use lock tight stud grade) I did it up using a windy gun because I didn't have any one or thing to hold onto it as I did the bolts up. Fit shims to correct side and place on new bearings. I used a press but tapping on with the old bearings should work. Now you can undo the butterfly nut.
10. Now is the hard bit again. Placing back into the case. Well again I thought it's not going back in and I started to despair. But have confidence, there are little knacks to get it back in.
It's very awkward especially with the outer bearing races wanting to do their own thing.
First get comfortable have a large screwdriver, nylon hammer the two bearing shell caps ready to go on the right side, ratchet at the ready.
After you had your wheatabix, you need to raise the diff and roughly place it into the case. It will go in a little low. Get your large screwdriver and raise the diff and you should get a reassuring clunk as it semi locates. Get your nylon hammer, and tap on both sides until you can get the bearing caps on and the 4 bolts locate into their holes, slowly do up a couple of flats at a time evenly. Eventually it goes all the way home. Lovely.
11. When you're happy the backlash is acceptable remove the bearing cap bolts apply lock tight stud grade and torque up.
(Please note really you should be doing the back lash test and double checking your diff is in the right place reference to the pinion. The easiest way is to check the load pattern using engineers blue. I didn't do it for this one but will be doing it for the front as that is a total ring and pinion replacement,)
12. Clean all your mating surfaces insert new joints and cover with copper slip.
13. Insert halfshafts and do up hub bolts.
14. Jack up wheels and carry out the Detroit locker tests as stated in the manual
15. Replace diff pan and fill with your choice of axle oil.
16. You're done go tell the wife what a hero you are.
Tools used
• Nylon Hammer
• 2 x pipes/ bars
• Large screw driver
• Windy gun
• 2 arm bearing puller
• Bearing press
• 19mm 17mm sockets and ratchet
• Jack
• Lock tight stud grade
• Copper slip
• 2 x new bearings
• Oxy acetylene torch.
• 1 spare day.
1. Drain oil from the diff.
2. Remove diff pan cover and relocate the link connnected to the apportioning valve.
3. Take photos of the bearing caps so you know which way round and on what side they go.
4. Remove half shafts.
5. Take off bearing caps and keep separated. Keep the bolts in the correct holes.
6. Now the bit you're probably interested in. How to remove the diff without a spreader. Well I didn't take any photos as I was struggling but it can be done. I did it be getting two longish pipes/bars whatever and levering it out.
This is roughly where the bars went. Some times on the other side. At first you think It's not coming out because in the back of your head you know you should be using a spreader, but then you hit a sweet spot and it moves a smidge. Then you will work out how to get it out. By the time I finished my front one it was coming in and out no problem. I would advise having a mate because it is heavy when it comes out and you don't want it landing on you head.
7. Here's the proof.
Now the casing needs a good clean out.
8. Now to dismantle the diff. It is easier to use a windy gun. If you use a ratchet or spanner then you will have to hold on to the diff tightly to stop it turning. The most difficult part was the removal of the bearings. You do need to remove them to take the diff apart.
There are only 2 points were a bearing puller can locate and I had to grind mine down to fit. Because it locates onto the shims there isn't much grip. Eventually I took off the outer race, heated the inner one up with oxy acetylene and removed it but even then it was hard work. It may be easier to cutting off if you don't have a torch or trying to use a bearing splitter. That's what I will try next time.
Remember not mix the shims when you do get it off and keep them separate so you know what side they go back on. I had spare shims. As some were damaged, I swapped like for like.
Once you have undone it, clean it out and remove the inner gubbings. The inner spacers are no long needed.
9. Now insert your new locker. The instructions are very good. Place it in the right way round but don't undo the butterfly nut yet.
Ironically I went to a lot of effort to get side gears for my broken front diff, but the rear side gears are no longer needed.
Refit the other half (use lock tight stud grade) I did it up using a windy gun because I didn't have any one or thing to hold onto it as I did the bolts up. Fit shims to correct side and place on new bearings. I used a press but tapping on with the old bearings should work. Now you can undo the butterfly nut.
10. Now is the hard bit again. Placing back into the case. Well again I thought it's not going back in and I started to despair. But have confidence, there are little knacks to get it back in.
It's very awkward especially with the outer bearing races wanting to do their own thing.
First get comfortable have a large screwdriver, nylon hammer the two bearing shell caps ready to go on the right side, ratchet at the ready.
After you had your wheatabix, you need to raise the diff and roughly place it into the case. It will go in a little low. Get your large screwdriver and raise the diff and you should get a reassuring clunk as it semi locates. Get your nylon hammer, and tap on both sides until you can get the bearing caps on and the 4 bolts locate into their holes, slowly do up a couple of flats at a time evenly. Eventually it goes all the way home. Lovely.
11. When you're happy the backlash is acceptable remove the bearing cap bolts apply lock tight stud grade and torque up.
(Please note really you should be doing the back lash test and double checking your diff is in the right place reference to the pinion. The easiest way is to check the load pattern using engineers blue. I didn't do it for this one but will be doing it for the front as that is a total ring and pinion replacement,)
12. Clean all your mating surfaces insert new joints and cover with copper slip.
13. Insert halfshafts and do up hub bolts.
14. Jack up wheels and carry out the Detroit locker tests as stated in the manual
15. Replace diff pan and fill with your choice of axle oil.
16. You're done go tell the wife what a hero you are.
Tools used
• Nylon Hammer
• 2 x pipes/ bars
• Large screw driver
• Windy gun
• 2 arm bearing puller
• Bearing press
• 19mm 17mm sockets and ratchet
• Jack
• Lock tight stud grade
• Copper slip
• 2 x new bearings
• Oxy acetylene torch.
• 1 spare day.